Textile dyeing in Medieval Sudan evidenced by HPLC-MS analyses: Material traces of a disappeared activity
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Textile dyeing in Medieval Sudan evidenced by HPLC-MS analyses: Material traces of a disappeared activity. / Wozniak, Magdalena Maria; Witkowski, Bartlomiej; Ganeczko, Monika; Gierczak, Tomasz; Biesaga, Magdalena.
I: Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports, Bind 38, 103098, 2021.Publikation: Bidrag til tidsskrift › Tidsskriftartikel › Forskning › fagfællebedømt
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T1 - Textile dyeing in Medieval Sudan evidenced by HPLC-MS analyses: Material traces of a disappeared activity
AU - Wozniak, Magdalena Maria
AU - Witkowski, Bartlomiej
AU - Ganeczko, Monika
AU - Gierczak, Tomasz
AU - Biesaga, Magdalena
PY - 2021
Y1 - 2021
N2 - Numerous textiles dating back to Late Antiquity and Middle Ages found on archaeological sites in the Sudan preserve intact threads with vivid shades of blue, red and yellow. While some of these fabrics were imported, others are products of local textile craft. These textiles are the only witnesses to date of the dyeing activity practiced by the inhabitants of the Nubian kingdoms. The most popular decorative patterns were coloured bands and/or stripes, declined on a plain ground. More sophisticated fabrics preserve traces of geometrical or vegetal ornaments woven in tapestry or in broché. Independently of the technique chosen to embellish the fabric, the weaver needed dyed threads. Those can be coloured before spinning – as raw fibre, or after spinning – as yarns. A closer observation of the threads shows they are usually well dyed on their surface while the core appears less penetrated by the colour, which points to the application of the dye on spun threads. Except for the textiles, there is no other archaeological attestation of dyeing activity to date. The examination of 59 samples by HPLC-MS lead to the identification of the various plant dyes used in Ancient and Medieval Sudan and showed the combinations of these dyes to obtain various tones of a shade and create additional colours such as orange, pink or green.
AB - Numerous textiles dating back to Late Antiquity and Middle Ages found on archaeological sites in the Sudan preserve intact threads with vivid shades of blue, red and yellow. While some of these fabrics were imported, others are products of local textile craft. These textiles are the only witnesses to date of the dyeing activity practiced by the inhabitants of the Nubian kingdoms. The most popular decorative patterns were coloured bands and/or stripes, declined on a plain ground. More sophisticated fabrics preserve traces of geometrical or vegetal ornaments woven in tapestry or in broché. Independently of the technique chosen to embellish the fabric, the weaver needed dyed threads. Those can be coloured before spinning – as raw fibre, or after spinning – as yarns. A closer observation of the threads shows they are usually well dyed on their surface while the core appears less penetrated by the colour, which points to the application of the dye on spun threads. Except for the textiles, there is no other archaeological attestation of dyeing activity to date. The examination of 59 samples by HPLC-MS lead to the identification of the various plant dyes used in Ancient and Medieval Sudan and showed the combinations of these dyes to obtain various tones of a shade and create additional colours such as orange, pink or green.
U2 - https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jasrep.2021.103098
DO - https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jasrep.2021.103098
M3 - Journal article
VL - 38
JO - Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports
JF - Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports
SN - 2352-409X
M1 - 103098
ER -
ID: 337579630